Monday, 27 March 2017

LIVE PROJECT : COS #9

MONDAY 27th MARCH:

New Week, New Ideas.  We started off our morning with a group discussion of what we would like to complete by the end of the week - as we are having a 3 week break from university timetable for the Easter holidays, therefore we all agreed that we would like to complete a few of the trouser toiles (as discussed in the previous post), but also the technical drawings, illustrated drawings, line plan, range plan and our A2 inspiration boards all to be completed as well as.  Seeing as we have a mid-unit presentation to the COS team on the first day we come back after Easter (Tuesday 18th April) we thought that amongst ourselves it would be best to organise and finish as much as we possibly can; so that not only we have more to present to COS, but also to get ourselves a head start on the toile process for when we return.

So, we collated our research and design work that we set as a group on Friday to complete over the weekend, and complied these images into categories of finishings, fastenings, design details, and potential suppliers.  We then narrowed these design ideas down to select a few which we would all incorporate into a few of our designs - where appropriate. As a group, we chose Sophie to illustrate all the final designs, incorporating these features previously discussed, so that we could have a consistent line up of all of our outfits, which will look the same.

Our visiting tutor; Karl, gave a brief presentation on line plans, and range plans as well as a refresher on technical drawings.  He suggested that it was advised in each group that 2 people we delegated the task of completing the line plan and range plan so that you ensure all the technical drawings look the same, due to everyone having different styles.  Therefore, being team leader I chose Leona and Sarah, as having seen their technical flats before in previous projects I thought they would be suitable for this role.

Myself and Faye started working on one of the trouser patterns so that we could pass this on to other team members at a later date.  Within our group, we decided that for all of our trousers we are only going to have 2 trouser styles; tapered/loosely fitted and straight leg.  Therefore, as Faye and I wish to do the tapered style for our individual outfits we agreed that if we managed to get the fit of the trouser correct the we could use this as the 'master' pattern that we could then use to mark out where we are going to each have our own panels for our own trouser. So, we started by importing a basic mens trouser block into the Lectra system, and began altering the shape slightly to narrow the leg width to appear more tapered and fitted.  When reasonably happy we printed off this pattern, and mocked up an initial toile....


As you can see from the image above, the crotch area around the behind was not fitting as well as we hoped, looking baggy but once tried on a model it seemed the opposite - as if it was being pulled (the mannequin didn't have a realistic curve on the bottom like a person would.)  Once we tried this initial toile on our model; Charlie, we realised this was due to the fact that the pattern wasn't wide enough on the hip area and seemed to stretch out the bum area. So we made note and added 1.5cm to the hip on the front and back pattern piece.  We also didn't like the fit of the lower leg, and imagine it to be "skinnier" so we took in 1cm form each side, again on the front and back pattern pieces, thus making the ankle/ calf area 4cm smaller, but we ensured that even by taking off 4cm that the ankle hole would still be able to fit over the foot when garment tried on (even if it was made in a woven fabric as its final.)  We made these alterations to our pattern pieces and then toiled the trousers up again and were much happier with the result and fit...


As 4 people in our group will be using this initial style/silhouette of trousers we kept the master pattern untouched so we could all refer back to it when we wished.  Myself and faye wish to use this pattern and apply an elasticated waistband with drawstring where as the other two people wish to use a fly as a fastening.  Therefore myself and faye, then had to open up the waistband to allow for the gathering that would happen once the drawstring and elastic is applied.  After that we could then each work separately to add our panels but first we needed to work on the waist of the updated trousers.  What we did was slash into the pattern 3 times, from the waistband to just above the ankle hem.  This then allowed for four sections to be opened up to add the volume we needed (3cm each slit.) We taped these into place and re cut them out, making sure the 1cm seam allowance was added too.