Wednesday, 29 March 2017

LIVE PROJECT : COS #10

TUESDAY 28th MARCH:

Tuesday morning, we had another visit from Karl (one of our visiting tutors), where we were invited to have a workshop teaching us about Adobe Illustrator, and how to use it for drawing technical flats and applying fabrics and textures to our illustrations.  Even though, I am not the group member who is drawing our CAD technical flats, I thought it was still vitally important for me to engage in the workshop session and learn about how to use illustrator confidently as I feel I don't have that much knowledge of the software.  Learning about these tools in the software will greatly benefit me in the future; when I come to do technical drawings for my final year at university, but will also help my chances of getting a job as we are frequently told by tutors; that knowing how to use Adobe software, such as; Illustrator and Photoshop, is widely recognised amongst fashion graduates in their CV's.

After the workshop, Myself and Faye returned to our trouser pattern that we had been working on, on the Monday session (see previous blog post.)  We started by digitising the trouser pattern that we altered into Modaris, as we wanted to put the pattern into 3d on Lectra so we could get an idea of shape and silhouette.  Once we digitised the pattern in, we created a variant to select the pattern pieces we wanted, and used the 'desk of stitches' tool to digitally stitch together the pattern, so that a digital 3d toile would be created. Once we opened 3d fitting, I used the pre-positioning tool to place the garments to the male mannequin on the system.  To ensure that the 3d fitting worked effectively, I used the curve tool and manipulation tool so that the pattern pieces were 'sat' on the body correctly, which ensured that when I clicked 'assemble' the pattern pieces fitted together correctly in the right places.

After this initial fitting on the 3d mannequin, we added a waistband to the Lectra pattern so that we could use the elastic tool on 3d fitting.  This would allow us to get a good representation of what the waist area would look like once elastic has been applied, since we opened up the pattern.  So, I used the 'length measure' tool to measure the distance from the side seam to crotch seam on the front and back pieces.  I added these two lengths together and doubled this, as I only measured one leg of the trouser.  Afterwards, I added a new sheet to the pattern template where i drew a rectangle that had a length of the entire waist, and a width of 4cm.


 I then added the waistband to the existing variant, and also re-stitched it into the desk of stitches.  After this I placed it onto the mannequin using the pre-positioning tool again, and ensured the pattern has a strong curvature on the cross-line so that it effectively curved around the body.


By changing the fabric type of the waistband only to elastic, on 3d modaris, it cinched in the waist to fit the waist size of the digital mannequin (which we set to 32cm.)  After the trousers 'relaxed' on screen we realised that because we had to open up the waist this then added extra width onto the hips and leg, so that they now do not appear as tailored as we wanted.  We decided to print off this new pattern and re-toile so that we could manually adjust the fit of the trouser whilst on a model.